Drip irrigation is promoted hard, subsidised heavily, and installed on a great many fields where it then silently fails within three seasons. The technology works — the failures are almost entirely about crop choice, water quality and maintenance. Knowing which category your field falls into before you commit is the difference between a good investment and a field of blocked emitters.

What it costs and what the subsidy covers

A drip system for one acre typically runs ₹45,000 to ₹90,000 depending on crop spacing — widely spaced orchard crops need far less lateral pipe per acre than closely spaced vegetables. Under the Per Drop More Crop component of PMKSY, small and marginal farmers generally receive around 55% subsidy and other farmers around 45%, with state top-ups in several states taking the effective share higher.

Where the return actually comes from

Drip returns money through four channels, and their relative size surprises most people. Water saving is the one everybody cites and rarely the largest in rupee terms, because water is often unpriced. The bigger gains are usually yield and fertiliser.

• Yield increase: commonly 15–40% for vegetables and orchard crops, from consistent moisture rather than flood-and-drought cycles.
• Fertiliser efficiency: fertigation delivers nutrients to the root zone, cutting fertiliser use roughly 20–30% for the same result.
• Labour: irrigation stops being a person walking the field redirecting channels.
• Water and power: 40–60% less water, and correspondingly less pumping — which matters most where power is metered or diesel-pumped.

For a vegetable or orchard crop on one acre, the combined effect commonly runs ₹15,000 to ₹35,000 a year. Against a subsidised outlay near ₹31,500, that is a payback of roughly one and a half to two years — genuinely good.

Water quality decides whether the system survives

The commonest cause of failure is emitter blockage, and it is a water-quality problem. Borewell water high in carbonates, iron or suspended silt will progressively clog emitters, and by the time flow is visibly uneven the damage is done.

1. Test your irrigation water before buying — for iron, carbonate hardness and total dissolved solids, not just potability.
2. Specify filtration to match. Sand or gravel filters for surface water carrying organic matter; screen or disc filters for borewell water carrying fine sediment. Skimping here guarantees failure.
3. Flush laterals on a schedule — open the end caps and let them run. Monthly during the season is a reasonable default.
4. Where carbonate or iron is high, plan periodic acid treatment. Your supplier should specify concentration and frequency; if they cannot, find another supplier.

Applying for the subsidy

1. Apply through your state horticulture or agriculture department, usually online, before purchasing. Buying first and applying afterwards generally forfeits the subsidy.
2. Choose a supplier empanelled with the state scheme. Systems from non-empanelled vendors are frequently rejected at inspection.
3. Keep the land records, Aadhaar, bank details and a soil or water test ready — most states require them.
4. Expect a field inspection after installation. The subsidy is normally released to your bank account afterwards, so budget to fund the full amount up front and wait for reimbursement.

Subsidy rates and eligible crops are revised periodically and differ substantially by state. Confirm current rates with your district horticulture office before committing.